Monday, 29 July 2013

July 14 to July 27 France & Canal du Midi

During our rest day in Chamonix we took the Aiguille du Midi chair lift, me to Plan de L’aiguille & Anne to the top, which involved a very high & scary cable car then a lift inside the rock to the top – too high for me. Later had a more sedate train ride to Mer de Glace glacier.

View from Aiguille du Midi
We then left Chamonix & headed south via Albertville & Grenoble to Peipin which is close to tomorrow’s Tour de France Stage 16. The drive was over a pass then through a gorge then river flats – a pleasant drive.
Stopped for a quick look at Sisteron – a town on the banks of the Durance river & sandwiched between a castle perched on a cliff & further steep cliffs on the opposite bank of the river.
Le Tour is one big marketing & promotional exercise. From our vantage point at Laragne-Monteglin we watched a procession of service & official vehicles, then the “Caravan” which consists of 180 vehicles dressed up as floats like Moomba with loud music & spruikers pushing their wares, many threw samples to the crowds who went crazy. This went on for about an hour before the riders actually arrived & the crowd went even crazier. The riders passed in two groups – a breakaway of about 25 & then the peleton – it was all over in 10 minutes. But quite an experience.
We packed up & drove along part of the race course before heading to Sault, a really lovely town perched on a hill overlooking a valley full of lavender, sun flowers, corn & other crops – very colourful.
View from Sault
From Sault we headed toward the Camargue in southern France via the Gorges de la Nesque – a deep & rugged gorge with the road hugging the cliffs or running through tunnels. We visited the Pont du Gard, the highest Roman aqueduct, an engineering masterpiece. As we approached the Camargue we finally found ourselves on flat plains with not a hill in sight for the first time in ages.
Gorges de la Nesque

Pont du Gard
The Camargue is a vast area of flatlands & swamps on the Mediterranean coast between the mouths of the Rhone & Petit Rhone Rivers. It is a haven for birds & famous for its horses & bulls & has very popular beaches. We visited the Ornithological reserve which had many thousands of birds including – flamingos, storks, herons, ibis, avocet, stilts & many more. The birds shared their wetland home with horses & ragondin (looks like a beaver). After a hot morning of twittering we had a dip in the Mediterranean to cool down & a cooling beer.
The Camargue

Then off to the Canal du Midi – packed our boat with stores & headed off from Negra (near Toulouse) & headed towards Argens (near Carcassone). We had 6 days to negotiate 118kms of canal & 66 locks. The Canal is beautifully located in a farming area & we floated by magnificent stands of ancient Plane trees. The locks have been interesting & tested our boating & rope skills but we managed OK. Some have a lock keeper to assist & some are automatic (Anne jumps off & operates the mechanism & ropes whilst I try to avoid hitting the sides of the lock). By the end we were a well oiled team.
We have bikes on board so have been able to moor the boat & ride into the quaint little towns along the way for coffe, baguettes & other supplies & to see the sites. We enjoyed a visit to the quaint little towns of Avignonet-Lauragais, Bram & Villesequelande as well as the larger Castelnaudary & Carcassone with its magnificent castle.
A most enjoyable & mostly relaxing week after the efforts of Mont Blanc.
Our little Canal boat moored for the night

Anne at the helm

The beautiful canal

One of many canal bridges

Monday, 15 July 2013

June 29 to July 13 Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB)

Left Aosta & drove to Chamonix via Mont Blanc tunnel which runs from Italy to France under Mont Blanc for 11.6 kms. Horrid day weather wise – raining & cold. Next day brightened up & we explored Chamonix & prepared for our walk. A beautifully located town surrounded by snow-capped peaks including Mont Blanc. The town is close to the borders of France, Italy & Switzerland as evidenced by the dinner menus which included pizza, pasta, fondue, crepes & snails.

Then it was off on our walk armed with maps, compass, water, lunch & other essentials. What a truly extraordinary experience. Walking through three countries (Switzerland, Italy & France) staying in varied accommodation & experiencing some of the most amazing scenery. We walked a total of approximately 170kms over 13 days with 2 rest days with an accumulated height gain & loss of some 10,000 metres. The biggest single day climb was about 1,500 metres & the highest point we reached was 2,537m at Grand Col Ferret.
Most days consisted of a hearty breakfast then a relentless winding track up to a Col with stunning views followed by an equally relentless decent to our accommodation for the night, a shower, a beer or wine & a relaxed chat with fellow walkers. Not all tracks were steep & some meandered through beautiful forests or meadows to the sounds of cow bells & some involved a traverse across a snow field - some had cliff views or glaciers or scree & there were many waterfalls. Would you believe people run the full track in about 20 hours & many do it on trail bikes??? Crazy?

We met fellow walkers from around the world – Switzerland, Italy, France, Aussies, Kiwis, USA, UK, Canada, Israel, Sweden, Belgium. Ages were from 10 to 80+.
The accommodation was great in mountain refuges or gite hostels or cabins. The meals were terrific with traditional favourites on offer – fondue, deer stew, pasta, pizza, pig cheek, crepes.

The fields of flowers were amazing & colourful & apart from cows & sheep, we saw Ibex, marmots, many birds, butterflies & insects.
The last day involved some near vertical drops off the side of the path & a cable car ride across a very deep valley (way out of my comfort zone???) & we were also both pretty tired so it was great to arrive safely in Chamonix.

Favourite spots were Refuge Elisabetta & Refuge de Miage. A truly memorable experience.