June 20 to 28 Italian (& Swiss) Lakes

It was a sad goodbye to the Dolomites as we headed toward the Italian lakes. Tackled our last high pass & then followed the Rienza river from Dobbiaco (near the Austrian border) to Bolzano a city with many Austrian attributes – buildings, clothes & all signs written in Italian & German. A lovely city.

Near Dobbiaco

Near Bolzano

Then on to Lake Garda (the biggest in Italy at over 50 kms in length & 16km wide at one point). We entered from Riva del Garda in the north & the view was terrific with the lake surrounded by high mountains & cliffs dropping straight into the water. We travelled the full western side along a narrow road sometimes on the shore, much of the time in tunnels cut through the cliff face. Some of the tunnels are quite narrow & at one point a truck got stuck in a tunnel right in front of us. There were even some road intersections within the tunnels. Arrived at Desenzano on the south shore.

Next day (as we drove to Lake Como) was memorable for heavy traffic & roundabouts (there must have been over 200 in the 200km drive) & the journey took over 4 hours. Finally arrived at our lovely apartment at Constiglio di Rumo overlooking the northern end of the Lake. We sit here now on our terrace watching the sail boats, wind surfers etc with a backdrop of forested mountains topped with snow & clouds – just beautiful.

Gravedona from Lake Como Ferry

The weather has been hot (over 30 deg) each day but with thunderstorms each night in the surrounding hills. Today we took the slow ferry to Bellagio to see how the rich & famous live. Some of the Villa’s were amazing with spectacular gardens in spectacular settings. We wandered through the gardens at Villa Melzi which were just stunning. Then wandered the picturesque laneways of Bellagio before taking the “Rapido” ferry (a hydrofoil) back home. Finally the rain caught up with us as it bucketed down & a ‘kind’ motorist sprayed us from head to toe – arrived home wet but happy.

Villa Melzi

 Villa Melzi

 Villa Melzi

Had a drive along the steep, winding & narrow lanes in the hills behind our apartment. Required some reversing to a wider section of road to pass an oncoming vehicle. Testing driving was rewarded with magnificent views of the Lake & mountains. Then headed to Villa Carlotta, a 17^th century villa with more lovely gardens overlooking the Lake & surrounding hills. The garden was full of huge trees, manicured gardens & lawns, rhodo’s, azaleas, camellias, conifers etc etc – just like back in Monbulk?  – 70,000 sq metres in total. In the 1850’s the Villa was purchased as a wedding gift to Carlotta from her mum – lucky Carlotta?

Lake Como from hills behind our apartment

Villa Carlotta

Villa Carlotta

Today we took in a little of Switzerland as several of the lakes extend beyond the Italian border. We visited Lakes Lugarno & Maggiore which involved several border crossings. Promenaded along the lovely foreshore of Lake Maggiore at Cannobio – a pretty little medieval hamlet. Then on to Stresa to join the rich & famous – stunning hotels, villa’s & gardens everywhere along the foreshore. Dinner in the Piazza before a little more promenading & bed.

Hotel in Stresa

Villa in Stresa

Today we visited the 3 ‘outrageous’ Borromeo Islands in Lake Maggiore – both buildings & gardens were beautiful but “way over the top”. The gardens contain a rich variety of plants with many of the huge trees planted in the 1800’s. The gardens also contain many exotic & fanciful statues & fountains. The buildings are full of exotic sculptures, paintings, furniture & amazing architectural features – hard to imagine people actually lived here - & all in a beautiful setting???

Isola Bella

Isola Bella

Isola Madre

Next we headed to Lake Orta & the town of Orta. For dinner we wandered along a narrow  walled street for over a kilometre before it opened up to a beautiful Piazza with multiple restaurants overlooking the Lake – just amazing.

Off for a bit of religious history – we visited the Sacro Monte of Orta – which is located on a hill overlooking Lake Orta & contains 20 small chapels spread through the woods & decorated with frescoes & statues telling the story of the life of St Francis of Assisi. Work began in 1590 & continued until the late 18^th century.

A brief visit to the Isola San Giulio on Lake Orta followed - before heading over the hills & valleys to Aosta near the borders of Italy, Switzerland & France – castles & snow-capped mountains everywhere.

Isola san Giulio

Visited the Fenis Castle, a beautifully restored castle from the 13^th century, with a guide with no English but still interesting. Then off to Cogne for a taste of the alpine scenery on our upcoming Mont Blanc walk – snow, waterfalls, rivers & forests – beautiful again.

We are about to start our 2 week walk followed by canal trip so may be no more blogs for 2 to 3 weeks.

June 16 to 19 The Dolomites

A quick drive to the base of the Dolomites & a day of rest on the banks of Lago del  Corlo below the towering peaks at Arsie – a lovely spot despite the name. Apart from the changed scenery we also noted a distinct change to the house design – they are more like Tyrolian ski lodges & tend to have some garden area – though the streets in the towns are still narrow. Really quite beautiful.

Lago del Corlo from near our cabin

Today it was warm early (26 deg) we headed to San Martino di Castrozza & the Passo di Rolle high in the Dolomites (over 2,000 metres). The sheer cliffs, waterfalls, snow melt rivers & razor sharp peaks & snow made for spectacular scenery. The roads were narrow & windy but in good nick. Met a farmer milking his cows right near the pass who also loved the view but not the government??

Passo di Rolle

Near Passo di Rolle

Had a short walk at the Pass just before the temp dropped from 30 to 16 & heavy rain started. Returned via Croce d’Aune – another beautiful pass. The temp was back to 30 but with 70% humidity so had a local beer. These mountains are truly stunning.

Headed along the Canal del Mis valley then over several high passes (up to 2,100 metres but with peaks sill well over our heads) until we reached Cortina on the other side of the Dolomites – wow, wow, wow, such stunning scenery at every turn. Had a couple of short walks along the way & then settled into our nice little lodge.

Val Falcina walk

Next day headed back up the mountains & took a chairlift to “5 Torri” (a group of 5 huge rocky outcrops on top of a hill). Had an amazing walk around the base with unbelievable 360 degree views. Then walked back down the hill – a steep 1 hour descent. Then headed to the pass to contemplate another chair but too scary for me. Had one further walk in the beautiful forest beside waterfalls & bubbling streams before heading back for a rest.

Rob & Anne at 5 Torri

View from top of chair

One of the 5 Torri

Valley below 5 Torri

 

June 13 to 15 Venezia

Coast to coast. We took to the amazing Autostrada’s (bridge the valleys & tunnel the hills) to race across the country from Cinque Terre to Venezia (390kms in just 4 hours but 32.70 euro in tolls). Passed through mountains, forests, farmland & our first experience of flat land - with no hills in sight. Parked outside the city & walked to our hotel – a lovely Palazza built in the 16^th century on one of the canals. Ornate ceilings with candelabra & antique furniture – a real find. There was even an art show downstairs.

Breakfast on our Terrace

A lot of walking today as we explored the lanes & alleys of Venezia & checked out the many shops, canals, bridges & magnificent buildings. Then a more sedate gondola ride followed by dinner. We capped off a great day with a Concerto at the Scuola Grande di San Teodoro – a seven piece ensemble in period costume played Vivaldi, Albinoni & Pachelbel – just magic.

Venice

Our Gondola

Tight fit & he's reversing?

Today we took a ferry to Burano Island which is most famous for its multi coloured houses which are so quaint. The town also boasts a leaning tower on the church – quite disconcerting. Then on to Murano Island for some glass. There must be a thousand shops selling all manner of ‘guaranteed, authentic’ Murano blown glass. Some was excellent & some less so. Anne snapped up a bargain & I also noticed they are still selling the same set of glasses I bought 30 years ago (good taste??) Then it was back to Venice & a few trips around the canals by ferry before a quiet dinner.

Burano & leaning spire

Burano

June 10 to 12 Cinque Terre

First headed to Porto Venere - it was a very picturesque little port & marina with a lovely feel. We then drove to our accommodation at Levanto (neither of these are strictly in Cinque Terre but close by). Very happy with our digs for the next few nights set in a lovely garden close to town & the train station. Strolled the streets at night & Levanto had a really good atmosphere.

Took a train to Monterosso al Mare & then walked the beach/cliff track to Vernazza & then to Corniglia. Then took the train to the other 2 towns as the walking tracks are still closed since the 2011 landslides. What can I say about this amazing area – the pictures tell the story – just too many tourists?

Monterossa to Vernazza track

Vernazza from track

Corniglia from track

Rob testing his fear of heights

Manorola

 

A change of pace – forest walk, mountains, cliffs, sea views & stairs (heaps of stairs!!) & very few tourists. Walked Levanto to Framura via Bonassola – beautiful again but tiring (Anne counted 336 steps in just one stretch).

Old rail tunnel start to walk track

Bonassola to Framura track

 

June 6 to 9 Tuscany

Explored Montepulciano, another town ideally suited to a quiet meander along beautiful streets & piazza’s & checked out a wine cellar in a cave under the town. Also visited a Museum of Torture (just for something different??) – quite gruesome & a bit scary to see what one human is capable of doing to another.

Montepulciano shopping

Montepulciano

Next stop, Sienna. The superlatives continue as we visit the huge Piazza del Campo & Anne climbed the 388 steps to the top of the Torre del Mangia (too scary for me?) & we also checked out the stunning Duomo – these things are huge & ornate & there seem to be at least two in every town.

View from Torre del Mangia - Siena

Siena

A mixed day – a drive through the lovely Chianti area to Colle di Val d’Elsa where we had planned a walk but could not find any of the tracks so headed to San Gimignano, best known for its many Medieval towers and works of art. We then managed to get lost trying to find our accommodation for the night – which is in sight of San Gimignano? When we finally got there it was time for a rest.

From San Gimignano

San Gimignano

An amble through the beautiful Tuscan olive & grape farms kicked off a warm & sunny day. About half way through the walk we lost our track & had to hike part way along the road – not so beautiful but still a magnificent area for a walk. For most of the walk we caught glimpses of the towers of San Gimignano. Hot & tired but satisfied with a 15 to 20 km walk we headed for Lucca – another walled town but decided to say a little north of town. Finished up in Barga a quaint town in a valley between two large mountain ranges. Had a great meal & hit the sack.

San Gimignano walk

Headed a little north of Barga to further embrace the lovely river valleys, mountains & forests surrounded by rugged peaks before back tracking to Lucca. This is another walled town but this time on flat land & the wall is fully intact with arched entrance gates. The wall has been turned into a park surrounding the old city. It is possible to walk completely around the city on the wall - which we did of course - it is wide, with grass & trees & runs for about 4km. The rain had started again so we high tailed it to La Spezia. A little confusion when we misunderstood the GPS & finished up in a works depot with no exit other than back up the ramp the wrong way??? Arrived safe & well.

Barga

Lucca city wall

 

June 2 to 5 Umbria

Bewdy – no rain. From L’Aquila we headed towards Rieti but were thwarted by a closed road so detoured to Montereale where we came across a lovely little village market laid out along the narrow cobble stone streets & blocking most of the road. Stocked up on fruit & veg plus Anne bought some shoes. In the gaps between the buildings we could see beautiful forest covered mountains backed by snow-capped peaks – idyllic.

Montereale market

Continued along the mountain roads with multiple hair pin bends & narrow cobblestone streets through the towns until we reached Spoleto. Another quaint town with many arches over roadways & lanes. The Santa Maria Assunta church was stunning & La Rocca, a fortress overlooking the town, was impressive. I then challenged my fear of heights for the 2^nd day running as we walked across Ponte delle Torri (a 70 m high bridge/aqueduct) – my palms are still sweating. Then on to Assisi for the night as the skies opened & the rain bucketed down.

L'Aquila Road

Ponte delle Torri - Spoleto

The rain held off long enough this morning for us to have a good look at Assisi – another amazing town. We first visited Eremo delle Carceri a few k’s out of Assisi which is where St Francis Assisi had his silent sanctuary – built into & around the cliffs within the forest – a beautiful spot. Then to Monte Subasio  the top of the mountain above Assisi – unfortunately the views were largely covered with clouds but the drive was very picturesque. Then to the cathedrals & fortress of Assisi – just great. Then even more rain plus minor flooding on the roads.

Eremo delle Carceri

Assisi basilica

Hooray, the sun is finally out. Off to Ripa, a tiny little walled town in an olive oil & wine area – walked around in 15 mins – good views & very quaint. Then a quick look at Perugia before heading to Todi & then Orvieto. This town has a most impressive cathedral & also a maze of man-made caves runs beneath the city. Originally they were for water wells, quarrying for stone, pigeon coops, storage & security if attacked. Most are now used for storage & as wine cellars. We visited one which was amazing – steep & narrow passages opening to larger rooms & occasional openings right out of the cliff face.

View from Todi

View from Orvieto

Anne in Orvieto

Today we drove to Lake Trasimeno & caught the ferry to Isola Maggiore (a small island on the lake) famous for its lace work which is still done by a handful of ladies. Had a nice walk around the island then drove through the beautiful nearby Tuscan hills to Montepulciano. Planned to walk some more but raining again.