April 25 – 28 - Atlas Mountains to Essaouira by the sea.

Thursday 25 – a brief walk through the Gorge again before heading off shopping – silver smiths, scarfs & rugs, a range of arts & crafts from the disability rehab centre, the Berber pharmacy (I had a neck & shoulder massage and Anne a head massage, I also got some nigella seeds for my cold – just crush & sniff through a cloth???) then off to the magnificent Kasbah at Ait Ben Haddou – we enjoyed a sunset walk through the Kasbah – the wind & dust were very bad on the way to the Kasbah but very protected within the walls. Absolutely stunning views from the Kasbah & our hotel window.

Todra Gorge

From Ait Ben Haddou Kasbah



Kasbah at Ait Ben Haddou
 



View from Kasbah

 

Discovered a little more about our guide today. Tahar is a Berber & when he was born his family were nomads in the south of Morocco near Algiers. He has a wife & two young daughters who still live in the desert but in a mud brick house with the rest of his wider family (parents, siblings, spouses & their children). They herd goats which provide food & can be bartered for other goods collected from the next town by donkey or camel. He is the only wage earner and supports his whole family. 

Friday 26 – breakfast on the terrace overlooking the Kasbah before heading for the Atlas Mountains. Winding roads and breathtaking scenery. Wherever we stop we are approached by local vendors selling their wares. This is every 50 metres in towns but even on mountain passes or desert loo stops a vendor will appear from behind a rock or bush as soon as you stop. They all call me Ali Baba – due to the beard I assume? We were dropped off in the village of Imlil & then had an hours walk to our Gite for the night. A family home with 4 spare rooms for visitors. Tajin (the owner) will be guiding us on our mountain walk tomorrow. His wife cooked a beautiful soup followed by chicken & veg tagine for dinner. 

Most Moroccan men have just one wife these days but can still have up to four. HOWEVER, they must first prove they can support the additional wife & then need approval from any existing wives, the new wife & all families involved (our guide suggested one was more than enough anyway).

Kasbah in Atlas Mtns

Windy Road from Tichka Pass

View from road in Atlas Mtns

PS The nigella snuff is working.

Saturday 27 – early start to climb to the shrine on the slopes of Jebel Toubkal – about 2 hours up a narrow winding track with pilgrims, donkeys & tourists. The walk was brilliant, the shrine a little underwhelming. Back to our Gite for goat Tagine & Berber omelette (best yet). A long bus ride to the seaside town of Essaouira. Dinner at a more up market seafood restaurant with Gnaoua music in the background (sort of Bob Marley??).

Walk in Atlas Mtns

Boats in Essaouria Harbour

Essouaria fortress

Sunday 28 - Essouira is a lovely town with a nice feel. Walked the Medina, beach, fishing port. A less chaotic medina surrounded by a massive wall meant we could wander around without getting lost. Picked up some bargains from the stalls.

Typical Kasbah store

Moroccan’s seem to love cats. They are everywhere we go - but have been in plague numbers here.