Wednesday, 24 April 2013

Intrepid Tour Begins


Thursday 18 - Met our fellow travellers and guide (Tahar Baba) last night & headed out for a Moroccan meal (lamb & veg Tagine for me). This morning caught train to Rabat, the country’s capital with 1.4 mil people. A much neater and cleaner city with a really nice feel. Visited the Medina, another colourful market with great products, colours and aromas. Then to the Kasbah des Oudaias an amazing maze of narrow streets and alleys with interesting doorways (an old fort and now home to many) & with views of the beaches. Next stop Hassan II Tower and the “over the top” Mausoleum of Mohammed V. Then back to the station and a 2 hour journey to Meknes.
Tahar - our guide pouring mint tea
Meknes Kasbah (sorry picture sideways)
Friday 19 – started with a self-guided walk to see the major attractions of Meknes. Got badly lost & a little frustrated before getting inside the Medina walls (old city).After entering we followed an amazing road running between 2 massive stone walls & guarded by security personnel (as close to the King’s Meknes palace). Saw some fantastic gates and buildings with elaborate and ornate mosaic work. Visited the underground prison – 7 hectares of dark corridors and pillars with only light from very small skylights. Then through another massive gate to a fantastic museum in a former home including whisky making room and a harem room. Lunch of camel burger in the smallest restaurant I’ve been to – yum. Then on to the ancient roman ruins at Volubillis – incredibly well preserved mosaics but mostly destroyed by earthquake. Then to Fes. A magnificent Pastilla (pastry covered dish of pigeon or chicken covered with icing sugar) for dinner.
Volubillis
Our camel burger chef on his side??

Sheik's harem
Saturday 20 – today’s tour of Fes led by Mahommed a wonderful little guy who kept us entertained all day. More fantastic gates followed by a trip to the nearby old fort to view the city from above. Then a day of craft and artisans – first the pottery co-operative – amazing craft work, then to the old Medina to see the making of beautiful carpets, weaving of fabrics, tannery, dyeing works etc – all contained within the narrow alleyways & lanes of the Medina. We were nearly knocked over by a donkey carrying skins in a ‘traffic jam’ with another donkey. The Medina is surrounded by a 32 km fortified wall and has some 9,400 streets or laneways crowded with people, carts, stalls, donkeys and endless cats. Food & wares of every imaginable colour, size and kind available. Just mind blowing. Behind the often jaded exteriors were some amazing homes, mosques, courtyards etc.
Back to the hotel for a pre-dinner stroll along the Fes’ Champs Elise along with the rest of the Fes population. A beautiful spot and a lovely family atmosphere. Cyrnoss (bread roll filled with cheese, egg, olives and deep fried mashed potato in chili and tomato sauce) from a street vendor  for dinner followed by nous nous coffee - delicious.
From our hotel window we can hear ‘call to prayer’ wailing, street vendors and constant foot and vehicle (car, truck, bus, motor bike, cart, bike, barrow) noises well into the night – very soothing??
Camel head soup anyone?

Dyeing in action at Tannery

Our lunch
Sunday 21 – Fes to Midelt – from green pastures to stunning mountain views in the Middle Atlas mountains to apple orchards to semi desert with an occasional bright green oasis. Saw Barbary apes (macaque’s) in a fir forest. Brief stop in Ifrane – an upmarket ski village – then on to our amazing guest house in Bremmem. A walk around the village before dinner to meet the locals & then local music & dancing.
View from Bremmem

Moroccan dancers??

Our guest house in Bremmem

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