June 20 to 28 Italian (& Swiss) Lakes

It was a sad goodbye to the Dolomites as we headed toward the Italian lakes. Tackled our last high pass & then followed the Rienza river from Dobbiaco (near the Austrian border) to Bolzano a city with many Austrian attributes – buildings, clothes & all signs written in Italian & German. A lovely city.

Near Dobbiaco

Near Bolzano

Then on to Lake Garda (the biggest in Italy at over 50 kms in length & 16km wide at one point). We entered from Riva del Garda in the north & the view was terrific with the lake surrounded by high mountains & cliffs dropping straight into the water. We travelled the full western side along a narrow road sometimes on the shore, much of the time in tunnels cut through the cliff face. Some of the tunnels are quite narrow & at one point a truck got stuck in a tunnel right in front of us. There were even some road intersections within the tunnels. Arrived at Desenzano on the south shore.

Next day (as we drove to Lake Como) was memorable for heavy traffic & roundabouts (there must have been over 200 in the 200km drive) & the journey took over 4 hours. Finally arrived at our lovely apartment at Constiglio di Rumo overlooking the northern end of the Lake. We sit here now on our terrace watching the sail boats, wind surfers etc with a backdrop of forested mountains topped with snow & clouds – just beautiful.

Gravedona from Lake Como Ferry

The weather has been hot (over 30 deg) each day but with thunderstorms each night in the surrounding hills. Today we took the slow ferry to Bellagio to see how the rich & famous live. Some of the Villa’s were amazing with spectacular gardens in spectacular settings. We wandered through the gardens at Villa Melzi which were just stunning. Then wandered the picturesque laneways of Bellagio before taking the “Rapido” ferry (a hydrofoil) back home. Finally the rain caught up with us as it bucketed down & a ‘kind’ motorist sprayed us from head to toe – arrived home wet but happy.

Villa Melzi

 Villa Melzi

 Villa Melzi

Had a drive along the steep, winding & narrow lanes in the hills behind our apartment. Required some reversing to a wider section of road to pass an oncoming vehicle. Testing driving was rewarded with magnificent views of the Lake & mountains. Then headed to Villa Carlotta, a 17^th century villa with more lovely gardens overlooking the Lake & surrounding hills. The garden was full of huge trees, manicured gardens & lawns, rhodo’s, azaleas, camellias, conifers etc etc – just like back in Monbulk?  – 70,000 sq metres in total. In the 1850’s the Villa was purchased as a wedding gift to Carlotta from her mum – lucky Carlotta?

Lake Como from hills behind our apartment

Villa Carlotta

Villa Carlotta

Today we took in a little of Switzerland as several of the lakes extend beyond the Italian border. We visited Lakes Lugarno & Maggiore which involved several border crossings. Promenaded along the lovely foreshore of Lake Maggiore at Cannobio – a pretty little medieval hamlet. Then on to Stresa to join the rich & famous – stunning hotels, villa’s & gardens everywhere along the foreshore. Dinner in the Piazza before a little more promenading & bed.

Hotel in Stresa

Villa in Stresa

Today we visited the 3 ‘outrageous’ Borromeo Islands in Lake Maggiore – both buildings & gardens were beautiful but “way over the top”. The gardens contain a rich variety of plants with many of the huge trees planted in the 1800’s. The gardens also contain many exotic & fanciful statues & fountains. The buildings are full of exotic sculptures, paintings, furniture & amazing architectural features – hard to imagine people actually lived here - & all in a beautiful setting???

Isola Bella

Isola Bella

Isola Madre

Next we headed to Lake Orta & the town of Orta. For dinner we wandered along a narrow  walled street for over a kilometre before it opened up to a beautiful Piazza with multiple restaurants overlooking the Lake – just amazing.

Off for a bit of religious history – we visited the Sacro Monte of Orta – which is located on a hill overlooking Lake Orta & contains 20 small chapels spread through the woods & decorated with frescoes & statues telling the story of the life of St Francis of Assisi. Work began in 1590 & continued until the late 18^th century.

A brief visit to the Isola San Giulio on Lake Orta followed - before heading over the hills & valleys to Aosta near the borders of Italy, Switzerland & France – castles & snow-capped mountains everywhere.

Isola san Giulio

Visited the Fenis Castle, a beautifully restored castle from the 13^th century, with a guide with no English but still interesting. Then off to Cogne for a taste of the alpine scenery on our upcoming Mont Blanc walk – snow, waterfalls, rivers & forests – beautiful again.

We are about to start our 2 week walk followed by canal trip so may be no more blogs for 2 to 3 weeks.